Edgerton's Travel Blog

Travels with Charlie Adams: New Orleans and the Old South (Memphis, Natchez and Vicksburg)

New Orleans and the Old South (Memphis, Natchez, Vicksburg and Biloxi) - Travels with Charlie Adams - March 7 - 14, 2009                       

"This was an absolutely marvelous trip. The variety of activities was superb. One of the best on which I have traveled." Janice

BREAKING NEWS! This very popular group travel trip is going to happen again! It will be March 12-20, 2011. To have the brochure sent to you, email tom@edgertonstravel.com

NEW ORLEANS AND THE OLD SOUTH (Memphis, Natchez, Vicksburg), MARCH 7-14, 2009

by Charlie Adams, Group Travel Host

The first part of this highly anticipated trip was a journey down to Memphis. Motorcoach driver Gary Bays of Middlebury was behind the wheel and trip manager Sherrill Lee guiding the way as I had the honor of hosting a wonderful group of travellers. I entertained as we motored from the cold North to the warm South.

The first part of the trip would be the home of the Blues, Memphis, Tennessee. Back in the mid 1980's I was a sports reporter at WHBQ TV in Memphis. It was the start of my broadcasting career. I have fond memories of the city, and was excited to be back leading this "Travels with Charlie" group trip. We got into Memphis late in the afternoon on Saturday March 7th. Edgerton's had us staying at a beautiful hotel in downtown, right across from the famous Peabody Hotel. Our bags were taken to our rooms, and we headed off as a group to the famous Beale Street. It was hopping! Music was in the air as we made the short two block walk to B.B. King's Blues Cafe. Edgerton's had the tables waiting for us.

B.B. King had come from poverty to one of the most famous musicians in the country. He had arrived in Memphis with $2.50 in his pocket and tremendous skills in his guitar. We saw his famous guitar "Lucille" in the cafe. Various artists were playing the Blues. Our server brought us all out Fried Dill Pickles! We had various entrees and got to know each other a little better before heading out to Beale Street and all the activity.

On Sunday Morning March 8th, Edgerton's had arranged a City Tour of Memphis. I found this trip to be very interesting. Even though I had once lived in Memphis and worked there, I was amazed how much more I learned about the city by having a walk-on guide on our Tour of Memphis.

We went by the Lorraine Hotel, where Martin Luther KIng, Jr. was assassinated on April 4th, 1968. The Hotel has since been built into the National Civil Rights Museum. The balcony site is still the same. There are the same cars parked there, and a wreath showing where he was shot by James Earl Ray, although our guide told us there are conspiracy theories that debate whether Ray truly was the trigger man. When you sit there and look at that balcony, it is a surreal experience. I could not take my eyes of that wreath.

Our guide is from Memphis and was living there when the tragedy occured. She said the city "exploded" with intense reaction. Being there makes me want to read so much more about the assassination, the conspiracy theories, and the impact of Dr. King's life.

As our motorcoach went through Memphis, our guide Shelby told us fascinating stories of Elvis Presley. She showed us Lansky's clothing where a young poor Elvis first got his fancy clothes. Because Mr. Lansky provided him with clothing when he was nothing, Elvis was always loyal to him after he made it big. We went by an area where Elvis used to shop for Cadillac's. We heard so many stories of how many cars he gave away. One time he was inside the dealer looking at cars. A poor black woman was outside looking in. She had always gazed at the cars while waiting for the bus. Her dream had been to own one of the shiny cars. Elvis learned of it and walked outside and gave her the keys!

On our tour we went by the statue of Confederate leader Nathan Bedford Forrest. He was on a horse. Forrest had insisted any statue of him have the horse's rear pointing towards the North! One visitor from Pennsylvania once said that the horse was pointing south "because he was on the run from the North!" On our trip we had various Southern hosts tell us the Civil War was actually "the War of Northern Aggression."

Memphis is the home of Fed Ex. Our guide told us a great story about Fred Smith, the founder of Fed Ex. In College, he wrote a paper on the concept of Fed Ex. His professor gave him a "C" and said it would never work (!).

One of the most moving moments of this tremendous City Tour of Memphis was going to St. Jude Children's Research Hospital. Entertainer Danny Thomas was once at the crossroads of his young career. He wasn't having a lot of success. Desperate, Danny sought relief in prayer. He knelt before the statue of St. Jude (photo below), the patron saint of the hopeless, and begged for a sign: should he or should he not remain in show business? Impulsively, Danny promised to erect a shrine to St. Jude if the saint would show Danny his way in life.

He became a huge success, and made true on his promise. He was a guiding force in the creation of St. Jude's Childrens Research Hospital, which has done so much for children. Our guide said that when it was built in the early 60's there was a 3% chance of recovery for many children with catastrophic diseases in children, primarily pediatric cancers. Now, the success rate of recovery is over 70%.

Families do not pay when they come to St. Jude. Miracles have happened there, our guide Shelby said. It was a moving moment and my favorite part of the Tour. I had once interviewed Danny Thomas when I reported for a Memphis TV station in 1984, and found him to be a very gracious man to me. His legacy is remarkable.

By 11 AM, our Tour brought us to the Peabody Hotel, the grand hotel of the Old South. We were there to witness the famous Duck Parade! In a tradition that goes back to the 1930's, the ducks are led from their Penthouse on the roof down the elevator to the lobby at 11 AM sharp. They walk in a straight line on a red carpet right to the beautiful fountain in the middle of the lobby. We had to get there at 11 to get a good spot by the red carpet. Sure enough, those ducks came off the elevator and waddled in all of their glory into the fountain water. Each day they stay there until 5 PM when they are led back up to their Penthouse. Geez, I wish I had that life!

We went to Graceland at midday. Our manager Sherrill Lee gave us all tickets and we took the shuttle up to Elvis' home. They do a great job with the tour. We all had headsets with descriptions of everything. The audio often included interviews with Elvis and Lisa Marie, which added to the experience. Elvis was fascinating. He came from nothing in Tupelo, MS to sell over one billion albums, more than any other artist. The tour through Graceland was touching. This man was way ahead of his time. When you look at his looks, hair (!) and talent, he was amazing. He was also a generous soul who had been deeply impacted by his parents. His mother Gladys put a strong faith in him and his father Vernon put the work ethic into him.

We ended the tour by reflecting at his gravesite, which is right there near the home. Afterwards, we ate across the street. When we started heading south to Natchez, Mississippi, our manager Sherrill Lee put in a DVD on Elvis and his Gospel Music history. It was Sunday and a nice way to reflect on his career and how much he loved God. Elvis had his flaws and was obviously off track in his later days, but the DVD showed his love of the Lord.

Our tour also included going by Sun Records, where Elvis recorded his first song. When producer Sam Phillips heard him, he got excited. Our guide said he said, "I have been looking for a white boy who sings black!" Sun Records is a small building, but what a history! John Lennon and U-2 have recorded there, no doubt influenced by the fact Elvis had been there. Memphis is also the home of Gibson Guitar. Our guide said that if any of their guitars are not perfect, they are smashed. Their standards are that high!

We drove by the Ground Zero Restaurant, which is owned by actor Morgan Freeman. We went by some of the locations of the film "The Firm" which starred Tom Cruise. Our Tour also took us down to the mighty Mississippi. The river is deepest around Memphis - around 90 feet. Our guide said to never go in the river, even up to your knees because of the undertow. "We had a singer come to Memphis one time and decide to go for a swim in the Mississippi," she said. "He got a free ride to New Orleans."

We sort of looked at her.

All in all, I thoroughly enjoyed our time in Memphis. It is a city with great history and tradition. I cannot wait to come back and learn more about this mid-South jewel. Memphis has done so much with their downtown over the years. What an experience!

After visiting Memphis on May 7th and 8th, our Edgerton's group travel trip took us down through the Magnolia state, Mississippi. We went down past Oxford, my birthplace, and by Jackson, the state capitol. Our destination was Natchez, the city on the bluff above the mighty Mississippi.

Natchez is actually older than New Orleans. It is a charming town filled with southern hospitality. In the middle of the 19th century, almost half of the country's millionaires lived in Natchez because of the cotton boon. Many northerners came South and made various fortunes, and built incredible homes. Those Antebellum homes have been gloriously refurbished and people come from all over the world to see them - especially at Pilgrimage time!

Edgerton's had us staying at the Eola Hotel downtown. Edgerton's trips are so popular because there is such effort to find truly unique places like the Eola. It was built in 1927. 'Eola' is an Indian word meaning "blowing in the wind." The architects of the Hotel named his daughter Eola. She died at age 16. To this day they say her ghost moves around the place. One of tour travellers, Carol, said Eola was in her room. The Eola Hotel is a sight to behold. The grand furniture, high ceilings and overall atmosphere radiates southern charm. The likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Montomery Clift, Eleanor Roosevelt, and General MacArthur have stayed there over the years. Now, they can add the name "Edgerton's Group Travel manager Sherrill Lee" to that distinguished list!

Edgerton's had a delicious meal waiting for us upon our arrival. Then we went to the courtyard to sit by the fountain that had flames coming out of the water! Oh, what a place. Some of our travellers went for a leisurely stroll around Natchez at night. It was very comfortable outside.

We got up the next morning for a southern breakfast buffet, including GRITS! Several of our yankee travellers have started saying "Ya'll" and "over yonder." After breakfast, we went on a city tour with our southern gentleman walk on guide, Clinton. He showed us the history of the city and then took us to three Antebellum homes. One of them was Longwood, the country's only octagonal home. Construction was started in 1860 by the Nutt family. The "War of Northern Aggression" started in 1861 causing the workers to skip town. Mr. Haller Nutt and his slaves finished the basement portion where he lived with his wife and children. Mr. Nutt died in 1864 because of stress and pneumonia, leaving his wife, Julia, a widow with 8 children. She persevered and lived in the home until 1897. You can still see the tools left by the workers. A great majority of the home remains unfinished. It is fascinating to walk through!

The photos below show Edgerton's travelers at various homes. 

We had lunch at Magnolia Hall, which was built in 1858. Southern belles in hoop skirts served us a delicious meal in the grand dining room. The soup was a cold potato soup that "was to die for." I detected a bit of creamy vichyssouise in it. Many of our travellers asked for the recipe. The entree included cold fruit salad with poppyseed dressing, creme chese and a little horse radish with fruit cocktail, nuts and dressing. It was good! Dessert was brownies with sliced strawberries.

At each of the homes we visited we were greeted by southern belles and gentlemen in full costume of the time. They could not have been more gracious. They had so much information to share about the history of the home! And they were funny! One lady asked us if we knew the difference between a porch and a veranda. She said if you are having a cup of coffee, it is a porch. If you are having a mint julep, it is a veranda. If you are having neither, it is a shame!

I cannot tell you how charmed I was by Natchez, Mississippi and how much I want to go back and learn more. I bought a book on the rich history of the city and read half of it on the way to New Orleans. Natchez, some say, is the best-preserved ante bellum town in the country. If you ever have a chance to visit the city, or go there on an Edgerton's trip, jump at the chance. Our travellers raved about the experience as we rode toward New Orleans, for a four night, three day stay. 

After a wonderful time in Memphis, TN and Natchez, MS, we headed towards New Orleans on the afternoon of Monday March 9th. For the great majority of the travellers, it was the first time to visit the Crescent City. Edgerton's had us staying at the historic Inn on Bourbon, which is on the site of the old French Opera House. It is a gorgeous hotel with spacious rooms.

Lowell and Rebecca, two of our travellers from Fort Wayne, went to eat dinner at Arnaud's, a famous restaurant. Rebecca said they were serenaded by a bass player, dixieland banjo player and a clarinet player. Many of us went to Oceana Grill and tried various cajun recipes. The customer service at Oceana was tremendous. The owner came out and personally thanked us for coming to his restaurant.

Edgerton's travellers had a lot of free time Tuesday morning, March 10th. Dick and Lynne Vining of Warsaw shopped on Royal Street. Dick said they were in a chandelier store where on chandelier cost $600,000! I went for a long jog around the French Quarter and along the Mississippi River. As a group, we all met up at midday for a City Tour of New Orleans.

Our guide, Marty (a lady), said New Orleans is pronouced different ways: New Ore-LEENS. New Ore-lee-uns. And N'Awlins. "It depends on how much one has had to drink," she said, drawing laughter. With the nation's media focusing on so much negative news these days, she told us there were over 3000 college students in town to help rebuild after Hurricane Katrina. "These are college kids who are spending their Spring Break week working here instead of lounging around in Florida," she said.

She joked about the one inch of snow they got in December. "It shut the city down!"

We saw all kinds of unique things, like the popular restaurant "Mother's." "Their most popular sandwich is called 'Debris,'" she said. "What could be in something called 'Debris'?!"

Marty told us about their famous chicory coffee. "It is black as the devil, stronger than death, sweet as love, and hot as hell," she said.

There were many jokes about the rich foods of New Orleans. "We are the cholesterol capitol of the world," Marty said. "If we had known what cholesterol was, we would have fried it and eaten it!" Marty cracked us up. She said the people of New Orleans "dig their graves with their forks!" She said there were no Weight Watchers in the city and mentioned how ironic it was that Jenny Craig and Richard Simmons were both from New Orleans.

Marty took us to one of the many above ground cemeteries in the city. One of our travellers, Penny of Buchanan, Michigan, said it had been on her Bucket List in life to visit one of these unique final burial grounds. As we got back on the motorcoach, we all sang "When the Saints come Marching in!" "When you are singing, you are living," Marty said.

We went down St. Charles street and saw the street cars. There were still many Mardi Gras beads in the tree limbs from the recent celebration. We went by the WWII Museum. The boats that landed on the beaches of Normany had been made in New Orleans. It made me think of the upcoming Bill Moor-hosted trip to the Beaches of Normandy and Europe.

Discussion eventually centered around Louisiana's checkered past regarding politicians and how Illinois and Louisiana were known for their crooked politicians. "We have the best politicians money can buy," joked Marty.

In the early afternoon we all boarded the Steamboat Natchez. for a two hour cruise along the Mississippi. Our travellers absolutely loved this experience. Lunch was waiting for them. Then they all went out on the decks to soak in the sun on a day that saw temperatures reach the 80's (meanwhile, it was bone chilling cold back in northern Indiana...).  Travellers were able to go down in the Engine Room and roam all over the Steamboat.

That evening Edgerton's had us booked to eat at Mulate's Cajun Restaurant. We saw authentic Cajun dancing right by our table! The food was tremendous!

On Wednesday March 11th Edgerton's had yet another series of  experiences for the group. We went to Westwego Swamp Adventures. Captain Tom gave us a short talk on Wetlands and all the animals out there. Everyone got to pet a small alligator as we boarded his boat.

He (Captain Tom, not the small alligator) took us out into the swamps where alligators actually swam up to our boat! We got great pictures. Travellers were going from side to side taking pictures. What an experience! We went near snakes that were on branches (!) and had a great time.

From there it was onto the New Orleans School of Cooking. Our chef made Corn and Crab Bisque, Shrimp Creole, Pralinesa and Bananna's Foster right in front of us. Edgerton's traveller Lowell volunteered to help and did a great job. I believe he is going to open up a Cajun Restaurant in Fort Wayne (!).

After that delicious meal, Edgerton's had us whisked to Mardi Gras World. We got to go behind the scenes to see where they make the famous Mardi Gras floats. Edgerton's travellers were able to dress up in the wild outfits of Mardi Gras and enjoy King Cake. We were able to walk by the massive floats that had actually been in the parade. Mardi Gras World is right by the Mississippi River. It gave us all a whole new appreciation of Mardi Gras.

That night, we ate at Ralph and Kacoos Restaurant. It was a buffet and the travellers all said the food was outstanding! Also that night I delivered the educational seminar "College Recruiting Simplified" at Brother Martin High School. As a Senior National Speaker for the National Collegiate Scouting Association, I have a passion for educating and inspiring High School athletes to connect with College Coaches and ways to fund their education through athletics. We had a good turnout for the Talk at Brother Martin.

On Thursday March 12th, Edgerton's had another series of unique experiences lined up. We drove out of the city to the gulf coast of Mississippi. We arrived in Biloxi to go on a real shrimp boat expedition. We boarded the Sailfish and went out into the ocean. Our pilot dragged the sea for twenty minutes then pulled up the catch. He showed us crabs, squid, various fish, and shrimp. When he put the squid in a fish tank, ink squirted out. Our travellers loved every bit of it! We learned so much about shrimp fishing. 

The weather continued to be gorgeous. "Last year, winter was on a Tuesday afternoon," one local joked.

After the Shrimp Boat expedition, Edgerton's had it lined up for us to go to Mary Mahoney's Old French House Restaurant. Famous folks like John Grisham, Denzel Washington, Diana Ross, Peyton Manning, Brett Favre, and Sherrill Lee have eaten there. In the courtyard, there is an old tree named "The Patriarch." The oak is over 2000 years old! Edgerton's travellers had prime rib, salmon shrimp and bread pudding. One traveller, Janice, had the George Salad, which had real crab meat, small boiled shrimp, eggs, corn and more!

As we drove back from the Mississippi gulf coast to New Orleans, our guide remarked that at the Florida visitor's center travellers get a glass of orange juice. "What do visitors get when they arrive in Indiana?" she asked. "A hard time!" one of our Edgerton's travellers joked!

In the afternoon, we toured parts of the city most damaged by Katrina. We went to the lower Ninth Ward, which suffered so much flood damage. Much of it has been cleaned up. What is stunning is seeing all the foundations of homes. The homes are gone! All that remains are the cement foundations.

Our guide said New Orleans was 500,000 people before Katrina. Now, it is 300,000. We drove all over the lower Ninth Ward. We stopped at the home of an elderly lady. She came out onto the porch and talked to us. She showed us concrete steps where her old house used to be, It is gone. She is in a new one. "People from Indiana were among those that built me this home," she said. "Faith in God and a positive attitude is what got me through," she told us. The photo below is of Edgerton's travellers talking with a woman who lost her home to Katrina. I interviewed her for the special DVD that all "Travels with Charlie" travellers get after each trip. She said, "I had faith and I thought positive. I didn't focus on all this destruction."

We saw the Operation 'Make it Right' homes that have been built thanks to Brad Pitt's Foundation (www.makeitrightnola.org). New Orleans has come a long way since Katrina. There is much work to be done. Our guides kept thanking us for coming down as a Group Travel trip. "You all are helping us come back," they all said.  

That night Edgerton's had lined it up for everyone to have horse drawn carriage rides through the French Quarter. It was enchanting. The sun was going down and the Quarter was coming alive. The ride ended at the Palm Court Jazz Cafe where tables were waiting for the travellers. Live Jazz was performed in the early 19th century building on Decatur Street as travellers enjoyed another tremendous meal.One of our travellers, Elaine of St. Joseph, Michigan, was beaming from ear to ear she was having such a good time.

On Friday morning March 13th, Edgerton's had it worked for the trip back North. The group stopped for a tour of the famous Vicksburg (MS) battle site. Then, it was back home on Saturday March 14th, 2009.

Our group was made up of folks from Mishawaka, South Bend, LaPorte, Buchanan, St. Joseph, White Pigeon, Elkhart, New Carlisle, Warsaw and Fort Wayne. We had married couples, singles, and friends. Everyone came to my house in April for the traditional Reunion Party at my home. I played the "World Premier" of the DVD I produce for everyone. There was food, including the famous scotcharoo dessert treats that my wife Nancy makes, and laughter and raffle prizes drawn by our youngest daughter, Gracie.

THIS WAS A TREMENOUS TRIP - one of the best I have ever hosted for Edgerton's. I give the trip a 5 star rating. Tom Edgerton and his staff did a TREMENDOUS job lining up unique experiences. Sherrill Lee, as always, did a first class job of managing the trip.Again, this trip will be held again March 12-20, 2011. The 2011 trip will include a stunning final night. Because of the popularity of this trip, it is expected to sell out several months in advance. To have the trip specifics sent to you, email tom@edgertonstravel.com

Upcoming 'Travels with Charlie Adams' Trips:

Cherry Blossom Festival, April 8 - 14, 2010. SOLD OUT

Canadian Rockies and Glacier National Park by Rail, August 14 - 24, 2010 SOLD OUT

Mexican Riviera Cruise plus 3 days in Los Angeles seeing the sights and watching television shows being taped, Feb. 16-26, 2011

Hike the Grand Canyon, 2011

Pacific NorthWest, July 2011

Charlie Adams, Speaker and Author

host, Travels with Charlie

charlie@edgertonstravel.com